Growing grapes


Grape varieties and their characteristics

Table varieties of grapes

Technical varieties of grapes

The classification of grape varieties on the novelty

The choice of grape variety

Tab is vineyards

Biological characteristics of grapes

Inventory winegrower

Preparation for tab a vineyard

Planting of vines

The quality of seedlings grape

Formation and pruning vines

Guyot system

Wine glasshouse culture

Soil conditions and location

Planting grapes

Pruning and forming grapes

Pollination of grapes

Decimation grapes

Supplementary feeding and watering grapes

The harvest of grapes

Pests and diseases of grapes

The basic rules grafting grapes

Grafting of grapes eye or bud

Grafting of grapes in a split green shoots

Grafting of grapes to split trunk

Using last year's grape cuttings

Grafting of grapes green on green

The method of budding grapes

Kilchevanie of grapes

Care of grafted grape plants

Reproduction of the grape

Wintering grapes

Derivation of frost varieties of grapes

The use of grapes for landscaping

Planting grapes at the walls and arbors

Formation and pruning vines for greenery

Care of vineyards

Artificial pollination of grapes

Fertilizers for grapes

Recovering the vines from frost damage

Elimination of thinning grapes

Pruning of vine

Green operations in the Vineyard

Improving the quality of grapes

Methods of protection of grapes

Pests of grapevine

Diseases of the vine

Weed plants

Protection of vineyards from disease

Definition of diseases of grapes on the external signs of injury

Protecting grapes from pests and diseases

Characteristics of herbicides permitted for use

Precautions when working with pesticides

Collection and processing of grapes

Collection and storage of grapes

Grapes in cooking

Making a home of grape wine

Dry wines

Dessert wines

Manufacturing technology of sweet dessert of grape wine

The composition of grape wine

Diseases of the wine

Classification of wines

Table wines

Local wines

Quality wines

Wine tasting

Making wine from fruit and berries

Storage of wine

Culture of wine drinking

Culture of wine consumption

Site map

Inventory winegrower

Hand tools used to a greater extent in the cultivation of grapes in small gardens. It is divided into groups according to purpose: to care for the soil for grape plants for harvest.

To care for the soil above all need a shovel: versatile, designed to work on digging the soil, digging wells, etc., and re-digging - to work on heavy stony soils. Shovels are used for digging holes for planting grapes and grafted seedlings for temporary dripping seedlings and cuttings and other papers. When digging and loosening soil can be replaced with a shovel re-digging pitchforks. To align the soil are usually used rakes, with manual labor is widely used hoe, especially for hilling plants, while loosening the hills in the growing grafted seedlings or cuttings in shkolka, during katarovka shkolka seedlings and in the vineyard. For these purposes, and apply various rippers.

Katarovka - the removal of roots, but not all - but only those located at a depth of 20 cm, they are called differently - the roots of the upper tier, dew roots, surface roots.

Shkolka grape, a piece of land intended for growing grafted or own-rooted seedlings of vine cuttings from relevant, part of the vine nursery.

To care for the vines and harvest using secateurs, knives, saws, hacksaws.

Knife vaccination (for kopulirovka) is used for manual inoculation of grapes.

Curved knife (for removing clusters) or a small garden knife is used to harvest grapes.

Saw-cut saws are used to the bush with thick branches. They have a small crescent-curved metal blade, and the teeth are directed toward the handle. Normal hacksaw blade has a length of 3 replaceable 220, 300 and 400 mm.

Knives, secateurs sharpened for fine-grained corundum blocks or circles, and right after sharpening on the touchstone or straps.

To control pests and diseases used backpack sprayers and knapsack dusters.

In addition, each amateur gardeners must have additional, iron forks and rakes for spreading and laying manure, raking leaves and plant debris; knife-splitter to split the trunk and the formation of cracks to grafting cuttings, wood and iron vats for making fertilizing solutions and supply of water; scales for weighing fertilizers and wire brush to clean the gloves of old bark, and other works; sliding ladder to take care of the tapestry and high-growing bushes.

To ensure timely and quality of technical measures for the care of vines in the amateur wine-grower must be sure posts and grape stakes, wire tensioning trellis, string or bast of shoots for garters, clamps, pliers, hammers, vices, ax and other necessary equipment, as well as packaging for the grape harvest - baskets, boxes with a capacity no more than 5-7 pounds.

The entire inventory must be well fastened to the handle. We must especially pay attention to details serviceability tools, the lack of swinging blades in the handles, to avoid rough edges on wooden handles, etc. The storage equipment should be kept dry and free of dirt, and prolonged storage on the cutting portion to apply grease.

Sprayer. In a small area to spray pesticides and liquid fertilizers is most conveniently by a 5-6-liter units with pre-injection pressure (or with built-in hand pump). This is better than ever to press the lever, and the stock of liquid is usually enough to handle a large area. But how to choose a suitable sprayer, as "not drowning" in a sea of ​​different models? Below we describe the design features of modern sprayers.

Capacitance. This is usually a plastic cylindrical container with pipes. For better stability of some models made in the shape of a truncated cone, or fasten a vessel to the bottom "legs."

The volume. The devices with pre-injection pressure have a working capacity of 2 to 11 liters.

The pump. All models pneumatic mechanism. The liquid is pumped by moving the handle up and down. Upon reaching the working pressure of pen down no longer moves.

Knob. Usually fixed in the down position with the projections of various shapes-stoppers. In this position, sprayer convenient to carry from place to place.

Safety valve. Special release valve through which you can play off the excess air in order to prevent rupture capacity (the limit for the considered devices - 3-4 atmospheres). Some models are equipped with valves with color labels that appear when the critical pressure.

Rods. There are telescopic (sliding) or standard (no sliding), straight or curved at the end. Manufacturers offer a wide range of extensions, by which any bar can be easily modified.

Injector. Usually made of plastic. For some models, rotate the nozzle, thus allowing to choose the appropriate type of jet spray.

The filter. Captures large particles and impurities, preventing the system from damage. Installed at the inlet and / or the output of the spray boom. Filters are in the form of a cylinder or in the form of a perforated plate.

Interchangeable nozzles. Manufacturers offer a nozzle with various angles and shapes of the jet spray and stops processing sector (which is especially needed for spot spraying, such as "Roundup").

Fasteners. Collapsible nodes garden sprayers are threaded and locking plastic nut (rarely bolts).

Other features. On the hull number of sprayers made of transparent or translucent materials, the scale is applied to control the volume of the liquid inside. Usually it is scaled in liters. But sometimes there are double scale: Liters and gallons (1 gallon = 4.546 liters) or liters and pints (1 pint = 0.568 liters). Sometimes placed on the body of the sprayer manual checklists in the form of icons.


The first tool for cutting should be cut well, that is to be sharp and not to leave rough, deformed, wisp slices. Such wounds delayed much longer, and for their healing plant spends much more energy. In addition, the unhealed wound - open the gate for infection. Therefore, to save on quality secateurs or delimbers not worth it - otherwise you end up with will remain a loser.

By way of cutting shears can be divided into three types: the "scissors" with the two cutting blades, bypass secateurs and pruners with small anvil (both one-sided cut). The first type of instrument (with two cutting edges), even with very sharp blades still squeezes a branch, it is more suitable for cutting flowers or no trees shoots.

In contrast to the "scissors" bypass pruner blades are not the same and different functions. Operating (directly cutting) blade pruner this one. The second - a reference that does not cut into the branch, but only fixes it. Some models have a notch on it for better fixation. When pruning secateurs should be facing the working edge to the main branch. Then the cut will be smooth, and warp will only cut off part of its weight will take over the reference blade. These pruners are better than others are suitable for cutting living branches - they are cut, and not break the timber.

It happens that will cut out a large number of dead, dry branches. Dry wood is usually harder than the living, and for such work is hard pruner, pruner or with small anvil. Operating the blade as a wedge, is limited in this small anvil and brittle dry wood rather than cut the number of cracks across the grain. The severity of sharpening the blade, in this case is not so important. Shears to cut so you can anything you want, but do not cut live branches.

In specialty stores today you can meet domestic and pruners, and import. Their price can vary considerably. Products of known foreign companies, usually made of stainless steel, durable and resist corrosion. They do not need to be sharpened in a few years, plus they have a Teflon coating that reduces friction and prevents sticking of resin.

Domestic pruners are generally inexpensive. They are fairly reliable, although rough in work and, unfortunately, are rusting and need frequent sharpening. However, if after careful wiping of the pruner, and oil for the winter wipe with a cloth and put in a dry place, it will last you a long time.

Usability of the shears is largely dependent on pens. Different manufacturers make them from plastic, aluminum alloys, fiberglass reinforced plastic. The smooth plastic, which is commonly used in domestic enterprises, not the best option if you have to work long shears. In Western brand pruners tend to form the handle provides a snug fit to your hand. And are most comfortable handles with plates of microporous rubber. Very good so-called no-hands, they protect the hands from possible injuries. Buying a pruner, we must certainly try it and make sure it is you on the arm. And at the same time check whether it is easy to come together and move apart the blade. But even better - take with a few sprigs to right in the store to test the tool.

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