Hand tools used to a greater
extent in the cultivation of grapes in small gardens. It is divided into
groups according to purpose: to care for the soil for grape plants for
To care for the soil above all
need a shovel: versatile, designed to work on digging the soil, digging
wells, etc., and re-digging - to work on heavy stony soils. Shovels are
used for digging holes for planting grapes and grafted seedlings for
temporary dripping seedlings and cuttings and other papers. When digging
and loosening soil can be replaced with a shovel re-digging pitchforks.
To align the soil are usually used rakes, with manual labor is widely
used hoe, especially for hilling plants, while loosening the hills in
the growing grafted seedlings or cuttings in shkolka, during katarovka
shkolka seedlings and in the vineyard. For these purposes, and apply
Katarovka - the removal of roots,
but not all - but only those located at a depth of 20 cm, they are
called differently - the roots of the upper tier, dew roots, surface
Shkolka grape, a piece of
land intended for growing grafted or own-rooted seedlings of vine
cuttings from relevant, part of the vine nursery.
To care for the vines and
harvest using secateurs, knives, saws, hacksaws.
Knife vaccination (for
kopulirovka) is used for manual inoculation of grapes.
Curved knife (for
removing clusters) or a small garden knife is used to harvest grapes.
Saw-cut saws are used
to the bush with thick branches. They have a small crescent-curved metal
blade, and the teeth are directed toward the handle. Normal hacksaw
blade has a length of 3 replaceable 220, 300 and 400 mm.
Knives, secateurs sharpened
for fine-grained corundum blocks or circles, and right after sharpening
on the touchstone or straps.
To control pests and diseases
used backpack sprayers and knapsack dusters.
In addition, each amateur
gardeners must have additional, iron forks and rakes for spreading and
laying manure, raking leaves and plant debris; knife-splitter to split
the trunk and the formation of cracks to grafting cuttings, wood and
iron vats for making fertilizing solutions and supply of water; scales
for weighing fertilizers and wire brush to clean the gloves of old bark,
and other works; sliding ladder to take care of the tapestry and
To ensure timely and quality
of technical measures for the care of vines in the amateur wine-grower
must be sure posts and grape stakes, wire tensioning trellis, string or
bast of shoots for garters, clamps, pliers, hammers, vices, ax and other
necessary equipment, as well as packaging for the grape harvest -
baskets, boxes with a capacity no more than 5-7 pounds.
The entire inventory must be well fastened to the handle. We must
especially pay attention to details serviceability tools, the lack of
swinging blades in the handles, to avoid rough edges on wooden handles,
etc. The storage equipment should be kept dry and free of dirt, and
prolonged storage on the cutting portion to apply grease.
In a small area to spray
pesticides and liquid fertilizers is most conveniently by a 5-6-liter
units with pre-injection pressure (or with built-in hand pump). This is
better than ever to press the lever, and the stock of liquid is usually
enough to handle a large area. But how to choose a suitable sprayer, as
"not drowning" in a sea of different models? Below we describe the
design features of modern sprayers.
Capacitance. This is
usually a plastic cylindrical container with pipes. For better stability
of some models made in the shape of a truncated cone, or fasten a vessel
to the bottom "legs."
The volume. The
devices with pre-injection pressure have a working capacity of 2 to 11
The pump. All models
pneumatic mechanism. The liquid is pumped by moving the handle up and
down. Upon reaching the working pressure of pen down no longer moves.
Knob. Usually fixed in
the down position with the projections of various shapes-stoppers. In
this position, sprayer convenient to carry from place to place.
Safety valve. Special
release valve through which you can play off the excess air in order to
prevent rupture capacity (the limit for the considered devices - 3-4
atmospheres). Some models are equipped with valves with color labels
that appear when the critical pressure.
Rods. There are
telescopic (sliding) or standard (no sliding), straight or curved at the
end. Manufacturers offer a wide range of extensions, by which any bar
can be easily modified.
Injector. Usually made
of plastic. For some models, rotate the nozzle, thus allowing to choose
the appropriate type of jet spray.
The filter. Captures
large particles and impurities, preventing the system from damage.
Installed at the inlet and / or the output of the spray boom. Filters
are in the form of a cylinder or in the form of a perforated plate.
Manufacturers offer a nozzle with various angles and shapes of the jet
spray and stops processing sector (which is especially needed for spot
spraying, such as "Roundup").
nodes garden sprayers are threaded and locking plastic nut (rarely
Other features. On the
hull number of sprayers made of transparent or translucent materials,
the scale is applied to control the volume of the liquid inside. Usually
it is scaled in liters. But sometimes there are double scale: Liters and
gallons (1 gallon = 4.546 liters) or liters and pints (1 pint = 0.568
liters). Sometimes placed on the body of the sprayer manual checklists
in the form of icons.
The first tool for cutting
should be cut well, that is to be sharp and not to leave rough,
deformed, wisp slices. Such wounds delayed much longer, and for their
healing plant spends much more energy. In addition, the unhealed wound -
open the gate for infection. Therefore, to save on quality secateurs or
delimbers not worth it - otherwise you end up with will remain a loser.
By way of cutting shears can
be divided into three types: the "scissors" with the two cutting blades,
bypass secateurs and pruners with small anvil (both one-sided cut). The
first type of instrument (with two cutting edges), even with very sharp
blades still squeezes a branch, it is more suitable for cutting flowers
or no trees shoots.
In contrast to the "scissors"
bypass pruner blades are not the same and different functions. Operating
(directly cutting) blade pruner this one. The second - a reference that
does not cut into the branch, but only fixes it. Some models have a
notch on it for better fixation. When pruning secateurs should be facing
the working edge to the main branch. Then the cut will be smooth, and
warp will only cut off part of its weight will take over the reference
blade. These pruners are better than others are suitable for cutting
living branches - they are cut, and not break the timber.
It happens that will cut out
a large number of dead, dry branches. Dry wood is usually harder than
the living, and for such work is hard pruner, pruner or with small
anvil. Operating the blade as a wedge, is limited in this small anvil
and brittle dry wood rather than cut the number of cracks across the
grain. The severity of sharpening the blade, in this case is not so
important. Shears to cut so you can anything you want, but do not cut
In specialty stores today you
can meet domestic and pruners, and import. Their price can vary
considerably. Products of known foreign companies, usually made of
stainless steel, durable and resist corrosion. They do not need to be
sharpened in a few years, plus they have a Teflon coating that reduces
friction and prevents sticking of resin.
Domestic pruners are
generally inexpensive. They are fairly reliable, although rough in work
and, unfortunately, are rusting and need frequent sharpening. However,
if after careful wiping of the pruner, and oil for the winter wipe with
a cloth and put in a dry place, it will last you a long time.
Usability of the shears is
largely dependent on pens. Different manufacturers make them from
plastic, aluminum alloys, fiberglass reinforced plastic. The smooth
plastic, which is commonly used in domestic enterprises, not the best
option if you have to work long shears. In Western brand pruners tend to
form the handle provides a snug fit to your hand. And are most
comfortable handles with plates of microporous rubber. Very good
so-called no-hands, they protect the hands from possible injuries.
Buying a pruner, we must certainly try it and make sure it is you on the
arm. And at the same time check whether it is easy to come together and
move apart the blade. But even better - take with a few sprigs to right
in the store to test the tool.